Here we go again... Dartmoor Magazine's summer show schedule!
It may seem a little early in the year to be posting a photo of Uncle Tom Cobley at Widecombe Fair, but as soon as each new year hits we have to start thinking about which shows we’d like to attend with the DM gazebo.
This year we kick off with the two-day English Country Garden Festival at Coombe Trenchard, just to the west of the moor, on the weekend of 1 and 2 June. It’s an absolutely lovely event, and a delight to be able to spend two days in such beautiful surroundings (no mud!). And for those who might be interested there is currently ‘A chat with the editor of Dartmoor Magazine’ to be found on their website, in which I talk about my role with the magazine, and how it all ties so neatly in with my other work (writing walking books and articles across the South West).
August is the busiest month (we also go to print with the autumn issue in the middle of August, so there’s a lot to fit in). First call is the Dartmoor Folk Festival (9–11 August) in South Zeal (above). DM has a very long association with the event, and it’s always a great weekend. You can find us in the Craft Marquee, usually next to the Dartmoor Preservation Association table (we are good friends – honest!).
In the middle of August (15th) we’ll be at Chagford Show, in its glorious location on the banks of the Teign below Castle Drogo. Two days later comes Moretonhampstead Carnival Food Festival, on Saturday 17 August (below). The event was held in its current form for the first time last summer, and was a real success. (It’s also less than a mile up the road from home, so really easy for us to set up!)
On August Bank Holiday Monday we’ll be back at Lustleigh Show, after missing it for the last couple of years. It’s a great family day out – and the entries in the children’s classes always wonderful to see.
This year’s Nourish Festival (food, crafts and music over Friday evening and Saturday) in Bovey Tracey is scheduled for Saturday 31 August, finishing off a packed month for us. If you’ve never been to the event, do go – it is fantastic, and very, very busy!
Finally – at the moment – we close with Widecombe Fair in its traditional spot of the second Tuesday in September (10th). (And then – perhaps – a spot of time off?!).
A morning on Haytor granite
On Saturday a group of interested people met at the Moorland Hotel at Haytor for the launch of Stuart Drabble’s new book Haytor Granite: A Celebration (mentioned In the News in the winter 2018 issue of Dartmoor Magazine). Stuart’s intensely researched book tells the story – in extraordinary detail – of the Haytor granite industry on Dartmoor, and the people who ran it, focusing on the early 19th century and the activities of the Templer family of Stover. George Templer was responsible for the construction of the Haytor Granite Railroad, which opened in 1820 (look out for celebrations marking the 200th anniversary next year). Stuart’s book comes highly recommended (we’ll be reviewing it in DM sometime in 2020), and is available at DNPA Visitor Centres, price £16.95.
On a beautiful sunny morning we were treated to a ‘tour’ of Haytor Quarry and the granite tramway in the company of archaeologist Dr Phil Newman. I’ve been to the quarry, and walked in the area, many times, but it’s always a treat to revisit such places with an expert in the field. We headed up towards the main quarry, pausing at an area of uneven ground, foundations of former buildings (possibly cottages). Phil impressed upon us that back in the mid 1800s this part of the moor would have been buzzing with life and industrial activity.
When standing by the quarry pond Phil told us that we were in the oldest quarry in the Haytor area (I believe there were five at one time), this one dating from the 1820s and the first to be worked on an industrial scale. The narrow access path runs above what was once the main quarry entrance – horses and carts would have passed along the gully below the present path. In the 1830s, however, that part was also quarried, and so a new entrance was cut on the north side of the original quarry (via which walkers exit today). The lie of the land was starting to make sense!
Phil also told us that the crane base seen in the image above is not original but dates from the 1920s when the quarry reopened briefly for granite for the war memorial by Exeter Cathedral was extracted (more in Stuart’s book). The odd iron ring (below) set around the edge of the pond would have been used for supporting stanchions to hold the crane in place.
We walked around the pond (beneath a cliff of unworked and naturally weathered granite)…
… to the north side where Phil talked in detail about how the granite was extracted, and pointed to evidence in the nearby rockface (which, when it was pointed out, had obviously been worked). In the photo below you can see evidence of drill holes for the gunpowder used to blast the granite out (the line of vertical holes, and the narrow groove at which Phil is pointing). The third photo shows an example of feather and tare, a traditional method of ‘cutting’ granite; the bottom photo is evidence of an earlier method known as ‘wedge and groove’ (which can just be seen on the edge pointing towards the camera).
We headed out through the ‘new exit’ to look for traces of tramway. Again, I’ve walked along the tramway and its various branches many times, but I’d never noticed – just as we emerged into the open – partially covered granite setts indicating a junction.
It soon became clear that there was once a real network of tramways and junctions and sidings on this part of Haytor Down. Look closely too and you can spot the odd letter carved into the setts (masons’ marks?).
We headed back to the ‘old’ entrance to the 1820s quarry, where Phil produced some old prints of the quarry and associated buildings, many of which are included on the Tithe Map of 1840.
From there we made our way back to the Moorland Hotel (noticing a WW2 gun emplacement and slit trench en route!) for coffee and Stuart’s talk. A fascinating morning – many thanks to all involved.
A new marker stone for the Two Moors Way on the South Moor
I had a real treat yesterday: a trip by DNPA Land Rover onto the South Moor to look at the site of a new marker stone destined for the route of the Two Moors Way at Crossways, near the point where the route leaves the trackbed of the Red Lake Railway. It’s a spot on the route where people have a tendency to go wrong, and so the Two Moors Way Association have been working with Dartmoor National Park on the idea of adding a little extra signage. No one wants to see the moor covered with signposts, but it is felt that an extra marker stone here will be a positive and helpful step. Everything obviously has to be done in consultation with the landowner (in this case the Duchy of Cornwall), and it’s an understandably lengthy process.
We met at DNPA’s works yard in Bovey Tracey, where stonemason Andy Cribbett showed me the stone selected for the job. Aspects such as size of lettering (MW) and which way the stone should face have to be thought about (quite apart from how to actually get it to the site – see below!)
We then piled into the Land Rover with DNPA Ranger Ella Brien and Access and Recreation Officer Ian Durrant, and made our way along the A38 towards Ivybridge. We reached the moor via Cantrel Lane, picking up the southern end of the former Red Lake Railway, opened in 1911 to transport china clay from remote deposits at Red Lake and Left Lake mires to the Cantrel works at Bittaford. By the early 1930s supplies were exhausted, and the track removed. We bumped along the old trackbed for round six miles to reach the Two Moors Way marker stone directing the route off the trackbed (you can see the stone to the right of the photo).
The next photo shows the problem here: two worn paths lead off the trackbed at this point, and some walkers intending to follow the Two Moors Way head for the low mounds of spoil rather than sticking to the route, which is the path on the left. The plan is to set the new marker stone at a point where it can be seen from the trackbed, giving walkers a clear indication of which way they should go.
Having worked out where the new stone should be sited, we decided to go and have a look at the new clapper bridge over the Western Wella Brook (installed last month), so we followed the route of the Two Moors Way down into the valley of the Avon, which is crossed via a 19th-century clapper bridge below Huntingdon Warren.
The new clapper over the Western Wella Brook (just by Huntingdon Cross – see below – also on the route of the Abbot’s Way) will be a huge help to anyone walking in this part of the South Moor. Thanks are due to Dartmoor National Park, Totnes Ramblers and South Devon Ramblers for making it possible (there’s a plaque on the bridge).
I felt I had to cross the new bridge (just to check that it works!). We also spotted that some other improvements to the route in this particularly wet area have been carried out too – many thanks!
We headed back along the Two Moors Way towards Crossways and the Land Rover, just as the clouds parted – the light was incredible – we were so lucky to be there! Once back at the Red Lake Railway and DNPA team spent a while thinking about how to transport the new marker stone the last 100 yards or so, across very difficult ground. The trackbed immediately north of the existing marker stone is pretty much impassable.
What a fantastic day to be out on the moor! Thank you to Ian, Ella and Andy for letting me tag along.
Happy Christmas – and thanks!
A very happy Christmas from our small (but perfectly formed, naturally) DM team to all subscribers, advertisers, contributors, photographers and sales outlets… and anyone else I’ve forgotten! These two opening photos were clearly not taken recently, but are a reminder of brighter and more seasonal weather on Dartmoor. Above is Lambs Down on a very cold day in February; below is the moor near Fernworthy in January three or four years ago. I’m hoping that this winter I’ll be able to add to my ‘snow images’ library… I have a feeling I may have used these two before!
As another year draws to a close I am delighted to be able to report that sales of the autumn issue (with Dianne Jayne Giles’ wonderful photo of a Dartmoor Greyface sheep on the cover) were our best ever by a long way. So thanks are due to everyone who bought a copy… and also to all those who have resubscribed with the winter issue, or bought a gift subscription for Christmas. With ‘good sales’ in mind I thought I’d end this year with a blog about our valued sales outlets and those hotels who support us by taking the magazine for their guests (all listed on the DM website). We’ve got about 75 now, all around the moor and its environs, and we visit them all four times a year to deliver the new magazines and scoop up any unsold copies of the previous issue (and collect the money). An old work colleague from my time at David & Charles Publishers – Rhoda – with her husband Bill, along with my brother David (and sometimes me) – carry out the deliveries, which take three days.
This winter David and I took on the northern and central runs (from Dunsford to Okehampton to Roadford Reservoir, then down to Tavistock and home across the moor via Princetown and Postbridge). The magazines – 1500 at least (loads go to WH Smith and to the subscribers direct from the printers) – get delivered to Animal Crackers (feed merchants) just up the road from home (the lorry can’t get to my cottage!), and we gather there to offload them into our cars. David and I sorted out Moretonhampstead’s outlets then headed for Dunsford, then Drewsteignton’s Post Office Stores, before heading for Chagford and Gidleigh Park.
Delivery day coincided with torrential rain and strong winds, on top of several days’ heavy rain previously – in my panic I forgot to take a photo of the raging torrent encountered at a ford on a back lane towards Spreyton. We couldn’t get through, and almost got stuck trying to turn around… but then it was onto South Zeal and the excellent store in the heart of the village, before heading for Okehampton and Country Lanes Garden Centre, decked out with Christmas merchandise.
Okehampton done (Mole Avon and the Museum of Dartmoor Life) we shot down the A30 to sort out Roadford and Lifton Farm Shop, then dropped in to Riverside Stores in Bridestowe: the village shop is a relatively new outlet for us to supply, and it was good to find out that the magazine had sold really well there. We’ve managed to persuade some shops to switch from WH Smith to letting us supply the magazines: financially it’s better for all of us, and the advantage is that we can do top-ups during the shelf life of an issue.
Where next… oh yes… down the A386 to Lydford Farm Shop and Mary Tavy PO and General Stores (always a good one for us!) and onto Tavistock. Here we supply Lawsons, the wonderful BookStop (exactly how a bookshop should be!) and the newly reopened TIC in Court Gate on Bedford Square (you can see from the photo that the weather was starting to close in again).
On reaching Horrabridge the state of the River Walkham showed just how much rain had fallen recently.
We sorted out Yelverton and the Moorland Garden Hotel, then threaded our way through the lanes to spectacular and historic Boringdon Hall Hotel (see photo below) on the outskirts of Plymouth. By that time a) it was getting dark b) we needed a break – so we headed back onto the moor for tea at the Two Bridges Hotel (where I nearly fell asleep!).
It was a very long day in the end – we then paid a visit to the Dartmoor Brewery in Princetown (holding an open evening – we had a fascinating tour), then went back to Yelverton where I was giving a talk to Yelverton Ladies.
David and I reached my home at about 10pm, a little the worse for wear (we were very tired!). I don’t have many days like that – a bit of bad planning on my part, to be honest – but delivery days are fun. They’re hard work, but it’s always good to meet those people getting the magazine out to the public – and we are really grateful to all those shops and cafes who help us out.
And by the way: the spring 2019 issue sees the start of a new series of articles about Dartmoor’s contemporary village shops, kicking off with a look back through the archives to a time when emporiums such as Bolts in Princetown and Necks in Moretonhampstead were the ‘norm’. The spring issue contributors should all be working away at their words and photos right now (!), and I’ve got lots of great articles in the pipeline for next year…
Have a fabulous Christmas and New Year, and see you on the other side!
The Dartmoor Sheep Gather
I like sheep… and I like getting out onto Dartmoor… and so I was delighted to be able to combine both this weekend and watch the Dartmoor Sheep Gather, courtesy of the Dartmoor Hill Farm Project and Russell Ashford of Bowden Farm near Scoriton. This is the first time that this ‘aspect of Dartmoor’s unique cultural heritage’ has been opened up to the public, and both BBC Spotlight and Radio 4’s Farming Today were on hand to record the event.
It was a brilliant day. We were split into several small groups, each led by a ‘guide commoner’ – an active hill farmer, each one ideally placed to explain what was going on and to answer questions about the historic links between Dartmoor farms and their relationship with the moor. As we assembled I took the chance to photograph the traditional breeds most commonly seen on the moor, which were penned on site: Scottish Blackface, Greyface Dartmoor and Whiteface Dartmoor.
We headed up the beautiful track (down which some of Russell’s Scotch Blackface flock would later be drifted) towards Lud Gate and the open common.
Once out on Buckfastleigh Moor our guide, Philip French of Corringdon Farm, South Brent, talked to us about how the moor is cleared of sheep for a two-week period each November. Flocks are brought back to the farm to be treated for sheep scab and various diseases, and ewes put to the ram. Some farms put their stock straight back on the moor, some keep them off for longer; depending on the farm and its location. Sheep are ‘leered’ to a particular landscape area (lambs following their mother’s example), and different groups of sheep tend not to mix up (other than those that go ‘off-leer’). Philip explained that after the main gather members of the Commoners Council scour the valleys and crags for those sheep that have somehow evaded ‘capture’! (He also talked about the history of the legislation of common rights, which I am not going to go into here for fear of getting something wrong…)
We headed up onto the slopes of Puper’s Hill, with lovely views across the autumnal landscape to Holne Moor and Hamel Down beyond.
And then we caught sight of Russell and his dog, bringing the sheep across the moor (he later told us that a ‘proper’ gather would take all day and involve more people – and more sheep!).
Once the sheep were gathered at Lud Gate – look at the OS map and you can see how the walls bordering the common serve to ‘funnel’ livestock towards the gate – Russell was interviewed by the BBC.
Then it was back down the drift lane to the farm, where the sheep (mainly Scottish Blackface, with a few Texel cross lambs) were penned.
The next part of the event involved Russell and David Attwell, Hill Farm Project Training Coordinator, selecting a ewe (left) and lamb (right) and talking through their life cycle and physical attributes. It was fascinating. I learned that the ear tags carry hold information relating to location (ie Devon), the farm and the individual animal. Questions flowed from the interested onlookers, concerning financial value, health care and passports (sheep don’t have to have them – any suggestion that they might is being strongly resisted). The children present were allowed to get ‘up close’ to the two ‘examples’ on show, which seemed remarkably calm (David told me that if you get a sheep into a certain position it just doesn’t move!).
Russell says, ‘As an owner of common land and a grazier I am passionate to share with the public how we manage the commons and the benefits that delivers for the environment. These areas not only produce livestock but our grazing supports some of our rarest plants and birds while preserving our historic landscape.’ The value of inviting the public onto the farm and common to witness the sheep gather was clear, and I hope that yesterday’s event kicks off many more. My last photo shows a sheepdog demonstration by Kenny Watson from Postbridge, which the assembled company watched while tucking into local lamb and beef from Dartmoor Farmers catering van. The weather had closed in, and the wind picked up – it was getting decidedly chilly – so we beat a hasty retreat.
I’ll leave the last word to commoner Mat Cole of Greenwell Farm near Yelverton. ‘It’s really important that events like this share with the public how the landscape is managed and help to build a bridge between the consumer and the farmer. Many people don’t understand what a common is and how it’s used…’
On the trail of Dartmoor's infamous Hound...
It’s been a funny summer/early autumn for me. I’ve had to drop out of a couple of ‘big’ walking trips – a long weekend in Kintail in the Scottish Highlands to do the Five Sisters, and (today) 23 miles along the Abbot’s Way between Tavistock and Buckfastleigh. My tendons (damaged on the Dartmoor Perambulation in very hot weather) have prevented me from wearing boots until the last few days (normal service should resume shortly!). So walks have been shorter and less taxing than usual… but this has made me think about other ways of seeing Dartmoor, other than tramping across the high moor on foot. To that end (and in connection with a future feature in Dartmoor Magazine) last week I was delighted to be able to join Alex Graeme of Unique Devon Tours on his Hound of the Baskervilles Tour (2019 marks the 160th anniversary of the birth of Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, author of the Sherlock Holmes series of novels).
Alex has devised a brilliant tour that looks at Conan Doyle’s links with South Devon, and Dartmoor in particular. I’ll just pick out a few details of the day here, but I loved it all – and I learned so much. Alex disseminates a mass of information in a wonderfully relaxed manner – the story is of great personal interest to him, too (see below) which adds a really ‘warm’ element to the tour.
Many will know that Foxtor Mire, near Whiteworks, is said to be the inspiration for Conan Doyle’s dreaded Grimpen Mire in the story (see below), but Alex starts the tour in the village of Ipplepen – ‘surprisingly crucial to the evolution of The Hound of the Baskervilles’. There we saw the home of Bertram Fletcher Robinson, friend of Conan Doyle, and who CD often visited to explore the moors. And Robinson’s coachman, who drove them on their moorland visits, just happened to be one Henry Baskerville…
Alex’s ancestors come into the back story at this point, too. His great-grandfather, Revd Robert Duins Cooke, served the community in Ipplepen from 1897 to his death in 1939. He was a friend of Robinson, and knew Dartmoor well. The two visited the moors together.
Next stop Ashburton, where we saw the later home of Henry Baskerville, and his grave in the churchyard of St Andrew’s. Alex also pointed out a plaque recording the fact that Sir Walter Raleigh was arrested in a hostelry (now the Exeter Inn) on West Street in 1603 ‘to be taken to the Tower’. I’ve been to Ashburton loads of times, but I never knew that! (Alex’s tours are remarkably civilised, too, with time for refreshments built in… we stopped for coffee at Taylors on North Street – just managing to resist the tempting array of cakes!)
Then it was off to the atmospheric ruin of Holy Trinity Church on the hill above Buckfastleigh (somewhere I have never been, but always intended to go). It is a beautiful spot, and steeped in history: sadly subjected to two attacks by arsonists, the second of which (in 1992) destroyed much of the building.
Next to the ruin can be found the tomb (seen in the photo below) of the infamous Squire Richard Cabell, a ‘monstrously evil man’, said to have sold his soul to the devil and whose ghost roams the moors at night with his evil pack of wisht hounds… thought to have given arsonists cause to fire the church. It is thought that his story inspired Conan Doyle to pen his most famous Sherlock Holmes novel.
From Buckfastleigh we made our way up to the moor, passing above Brook Manor, thought to be the inspiration for Baskerville Hall in the story. We stopped at Combestone Tor, which overlooks the Dart valley. The spot as nothing to do with The Hound of the Baskervilles’ story, but bizarrely our bright and sunny day had disappeared, to be replaced by howling wind and low cloud…
We had lunch at the wonderful Rugglestone Inn in Widecombe-in-the-Moor, after which we headed back to Ipplepen (we’d run out of time – too much talking!).
Alex’s tour goes on to visit the Bronze Age settlement at Grimspound (below), thought to have been Conan Doyle’s inspiration for the stone huts in which Sherlock Holmes hid on the moors. And finally Foxtor Mire (see header photo), which Conan Doyle, Robinson and Baskerville visited together. Alex takes his guests to the National Park Visitor Centre at Princetown too, formerly the Duchy Hotel, where Conan Doyle is known to have stayed.
Alex shares much, much more information than I have covered here – and the day went by in a flash. Thank you for a really enjoyable tour – and congratulations on being named UK Tour Guide of the Year at last week’s Wanderlust magazine’s World Guide of the Year Awards 2018!
A Dartmoor Perambulation... 2018 style
Over three days in mid July a bunch of us got together to walk the 52-mile boundary of the ancient Royal Forest of Dartmoor. Different people took responsibility for recce-ing each day’s walk, sticking as far as possible to the ‘original’ route of AD1240 which was perambulated on the orders of Henry III (notwithstanding obstructions such as Fernworthy Reservoir which have appeared in the intervening years!) Day One was Cosdon to Dartmeet; Day Two Dartmeet to Princetown; Day Three Princetown to Cosdon.
It was fantastically hot, with little breeze and not much shade (or cloud cover). We each carried at least 2.5 litres of water, and constantly dunked hats in streams and placed them, dripping, back on our heads. It was tough going – around 19 miles on the first day, and over 16 on the second. I had to drop out on the third due to boot (and therefore foot) problems, which I have since discovered was down to the extreme heat coupled with an unusually heavy rucksack. Disappointing, but sensible in the circumstances. The photos below give a taster of the two days on which I walked (and if any of the captions are wrong I apologise – I did mean to take notes, but it was almost too hot to think!).
Many thanks are due to those who worked out our route so diligently (some going out several times to seek out hard-to-find boundary ‘markers’, many concealed under dense grass) – and congratulations to those who completed the course (I met them with ice creams in Belstone at the end of the last day and they were quite tired)!
The group at Belstone at about 8am on the first day. Somehow we managed to leave enough cars in the right places each day to enable us to get back to the bunkhouse at Powdermills each evening.
View across Taw Marsh towards Steeperton, before crossing the Taw and ascending to the top of Cosdon Hill (Hogam de Costdonne), from where we dropped down to Little Hound Tor, the Whitmoor Circle and the White Moor Stone.
Then it was on to Ruelake Pit, where we hunted out a marker… then onto Rippator (Rival Tor) from where there is a fantastic view along the valley of the North Teign river, with Fernworthy Forest on the horizon.
Next port of call was the Long Stone on Shovel Down, then over Thornworthy Tor and below the dam at Fernworthy Reservoir.
We walked over Chagford Common to the cairn on Water Hill (see header photo), then crossed the B3122 at King’s Oven (Furnem Regum).
The next stretch was interesting, threading our way through the open workings below the Warren House, then following the western boundary of Soussons to pass Runnage Farm, and then the ancient tenement of Pizwell. A lovely airy walk along Riddon Ridge came next, and then we followed the East Dart to Dartmeet (aliam Dertam).
Day Two dawned hot and bright again, and we set off at about 7.30am from Dartmeet, soon crossing Week Ford. Today’s leaders had done a fantastic job locating a run of boundary markers on the slopes of Ryder’s Hill, many of which were really hard to spot…
… while others were rather easier to locate (Petre’s Bound Stone on the top of Ryder’s Hill)!
We headed around the slopes of Huntingon Warren and crossed the Avon via the clapper bridge (I managed to cool my feet in the river for 10 welcome minutes) before heading up to Eastern Whitebarrow (Estere Whyteburgh), the most southerly point on the Perambulation.
From there we turned north and headed for ‘home’ (it’s a long way!). Crossways to Red Lake to Erme Pits, beyond which we found Broad Rock (not an original Perambulation boundary marker as far as I am aware) which kicked off a discussion as to whether such engravings on Dartmoor boulders should be preserved or allowed to gently fade into obscurity… this one is showing up well since someone had recently rubbed peat into the indentations. It’s a tricky one.
Next stop Plym Ford, then over the hill to Nun’s/Siward’s Cross.
We spotted the cobra head boundary marker on South Hessary tor, then headed across the common to reach the B3212 (and transport) near Sailor’s Pond.
So that was it for me, but I am determined to do the ‘last day’ soon! I’ve walked the Perambulation twice before, but never in such a detailed way and with so much work invested in working out the route beforehand. Once again a very big thank you to everyone who put so much into making it a fantastic experience.
Post summer magazine recreation for the editor!
Once the summer issue of Dartmoor Magazine is out of the way I can look to other tasks, and so I’ve just got stuck into some revision work for Crimson Publishing‘s Dartmoor Pathfinder Guide. I’ve been working on all the southwest titles for several years, and researched and wrote PFG North & Mid Devon in 2011 (reprinted and amended in 2014 and 2017). People often refer to the books as ‘those green books with OS maps’. The series has been around since the early 1990s, but have really stood the test of time.
The decision behind which routes to check depends on what may have happened since the last update – in the case of PFG Dartmoor I wanted to alter the end section of one walk to avoid the now-very-fast stretch of road between the drive to Prince Hall Hotel and Two Bridges. I checked out four circular routes: Lydford Gorge, Horrabridge (beautiful, but on a dull day), Mary Tavy and Two Bridges (photos from these two to follow). It’s highly enjoyable work – and always interesting to see what has changed in the intervening years.
The Mary Tavy walk (c. 8 miles) starts from the church, and wends its way through fields and via tracks onto Horndon Down – which is where the views start! Once over the brow of the hill (this photo was take looking back along the route) you get great views towards Ger Tor, Hare Tor and Tavy Cleave. The way then drops down to Hill Bridge, where we stopped for a bit to eat (it was a hot and muggy day) by the cooling waters of the River Tavy.
We followed the beautiful leatside path through Creason Wood (the leat feeds Bennett’s Reservoir) to reach Horndon Lane. Then it was on to Cudlipptown, past Boulters Tor on Smeardon Down, and back to the start via Peter Tavy and a crossing of the Tavy river. It’s a wonderful walk (Walk 22 in the book).
Yesterday a friend and I tackled Walk 25 – 9 miles in the book, but they always end up longer for some reason – and this one needed to be extended at the end anyway – we ended up walking 12 miles in great heat! It was the most beautiful afternoon. We started from Two Bridges, and headed up the West Dart valley towards Wistmans Wood.
We crossed the ridge to the east of the river by Longaford Tor, then skirted the old gunpowder factory and associated buildings at Powdermills (header image). A bit of welcome relief from the hot sun came as we walked through Bellever Plantation before ‘up and over’ Bellever Tor.
Next stop Dunnabridge, and down to cross the West Dart via the blocky stepping stones near the junction with the Swincombe river. Nearby we found the most beautiful hawthorn tree, smothered with blossom.
On we went across the Swincombe, through the farm at Sherberton and over the common to cross the West Dart again. Then it was up the amazing beech-lined drive that leads to Prince Hall Hotel and the Dartmoor Training Centre.
On reaching the B3357 we turned right, then crossed the road and headed up the bridleway across Muddilake (not very after all this dry weather!). We crossed the B3212 near Cherrybrook Hotel, then skirted the field wall… through a gate, then headed for Crockern Tor. From there it was easy to drop back to the outward path and return to the car park at Two Bridges.
I’m pleased to say that the amended finish worked really well (I only hope that the publisher likes it too). We ended up having a refreshing drink in the garden at the Two Bridges Hotel… in the company of those famous geese, looking remarkably relaxed in the evening sunshine!
Out in the wilds... crossing Dartmoor's wide open spaces
I’ve almost finished revising my Cicerone Press guide to the Two Moors Way/Devon’s Coast to Coast walk. I’ve walked the vast majority of the 117-mile route (Wembury on the south coast to Lynmouth on the north) over the last few months, and now have to finish the writing up, mark up the maps and sort out new photos and captions. It’s been something of a challenge in the recent weather conditions – there’s a lot of mud in Mid Devon! – but I’ve had some magical days. Last week saw me trudging across the south moor with a friend, checking out the section between Holne and the former Red Lake Railway. As the photos show it’s a wonderfully remote part of the moor… the image above is Huntingdon Cross, a 16th-century Dartmoor Forest boundary marker on the Abbot’s Way. The route of the Two Moors Way passes this as it crosses the Western Wella Brook (bridgeless and often a bit of a challenge!). I have heard rumours that a clapper bridge may be installed there one day…
We walked it in both directions, so this is the view as you drop into the Aune valley heading south towards Ivybridge(and then on across the South Hams to Wembury if doing the Coast to Coast). The Western Wella Brook runs into the Aune at the lowest part of the valley seen ahead, and Huntingdon Warren (rabbits were farmed here from the 1800s to 1930s) is on the hill to the right. And just up the WWB valley lie the remains of Keble Martin’s chapel, built in 1909. There is so much to explore in this part of the moor!
Here’s the 19th-century Huntingdon clapper bridge over the Aune, which carries the Two Moors Way across the river. We spent too long enjoying the peace and sunshine and skylarks and so ran out of time – the climb out of the valley to the Red Lake Railway will have to wait for another day (soon!). We had some fabulous skies on our way back over Hickaton Hill (first photo taken looking back towards the river).
The path crosses Buckfastleigh Moor, forever dropping towards Chalk Ford – and on a good day you can see the tower of Buckfast Abbey in the distance.
This part of the Two Moors Way/Devon Coast to Coast route is unsigned – it’s OK on a clear day (even then you need to keep a close eye on the map), but tricky in bad weather and for those unsure of their map-reading skills. The new edition of the guidebook will include a low-level alternative route between Ivybridge and Scoriton – and it is hoped that one day two more granite marker stones will be placed on the route at Crossways and on Buckfastleigh Moor – all up for discussion at the moment.
The path leaves the moor at Chalk Ford, from where an easy track is followed to Scoriton. What a perfect day!
A Dartmoor spring – unlike any other!
I thought I couldn’t let the experiences of the last couple of days go without recording a few images on this blog… after all, this is the second time in a fortnight that we’ve had weather like this – especially unusual when we are really supposed to be in early spring! These few photos were all taken yesterday from the Wray Valley Trail that runs behind the Dartmoor Magazine office/home about a mile down the road from Moretonhampstead.
Today is bright and sunny and the snow is melting. All is not lost – spring is definitely on the way!
A winter walk on Dartmoor Magazine's 'doorstep'
I researched the Walk & Eat route for this year’s winter issue recently. Walks in the magazine (and seasonal articles) have to be thought about at least a year in advance to get photos taken in the right season, so I made the most of a bright and cold day last week and worked out a route around Drewsteignton and Fingle Bridge. It’s sometimes easy to ignore places ‘just up the road’ when thinking about walk locations, but walks in the magazine need to come from every part of the moor – and it was good to pick an area relatively close to home this time.
And – surprise, surprise – the start and end (and some of the outward route) follows the Two Moors Way! Four marker stones were placed along the Two Moors Way to mark its setting up in 1976 (at Ivybridge, Drewsteignton, Morchard Bishop and Lynmouth). The Drewsteignton one is definitely in need of some TLC, as can be seen here… I soon left the TMW and found a wonderful path that snaked its away up through Rectory Wood. Higher up in Drewston Wood I was delighted to come across a veteran beech tree that has a starring role in the National Trust feature in this spring’s issue of the magazine!
What’s really lovely about this part of the route – which joins the Hunter’s Path along the north side of the Teign Gorge below Castle Drogo – is that in winter you get stunning views across the gorge through the leafless trees. And once you break out of the wood you are rewarded with a panoramic vista looking west over Sharp Tor (in the foreground) and Hunter’s Tor to the open moor beyond.
It looks as if ponies are being used to do a spot of conservation grazing in the Castle Drogo estate. The quizzical expression seen here came about as a result of me inadvertently clicking ‘play’ on my dictaphone – the pony seems remarkably interested in my description of the route so far!
The route descends to the River Teign, which is crossed via the suspension bridge from the Fisherman’s Path. A broad track is then followed alongside this fantastic megalithic wall (I’ve always loved it) along the lower edge of Drogo’s Deer Park. Once through a gate in the wall Drogo’s newly restored hydro turbine – built 1928/9 and once again in fully working order – is soon passed.
Rather than just following the river I decided to add a bit more adventure to the route, so I set off up the valley side again on the Deer Stalker’s Path, which zigzags its way steeply up through Whiddon Wood – it was really nice to get up high again (and back into the sunshine). The path then runs on through Hannicombe Wood. More great views are enjoyed from the steep and rocky downhill track to Fingle Bridge and the beautifully sited Fingle Bridge Inn.
From there I decided to provide a choice of routes back to the start: either an easy return along the lane and then the bridlepath on the north side of Rectory Wood, or – much nicer – a climb back out of the valley again along the Hunter’s Path. Height is gained surprisingly quickly as you negotiate your rather rooty way uphill…
The Two Moors Way is picked again and followed all the way back to Drewsteignton (the opening photo shows the view of the village and Mid Devon from the path over Piddledown Common). Walk & Eat features sometimes manage to cram in two good eating places, and this route actually manages three: the Fingle Bridge Inn, the cafe at Castle Drogo and the Drewe Arms in the square at Drewsteignton. The pub’s purple umbrellas/sunshades add a welcome bit of colour to a winter image!
There you have it – I felt that the walk turned out really well. It’s pretty up and down (something of a leg stretcher) but is packed with interest and there are plenty of places to stop and catch breath and enjoy the incredible views. The full route description will appear in the winter 2018 issue of the magazine. The final photo shows Drewsteignton Post Office Stores, a welcome refreshment stop for walkers on the Two Moors Way – and a Dartmoor Magazine sales outlet to boot!
Happy New Year from Dartmoor Magazine! Part One
Welcome to 2018! It’s a fantastic bright and breezy 1 January here on Dartmoor – unlike the photo above, taken at Cranmere Pool on the North Moor on a very wet day last June (it bucketed down for a full six hours while we were walking from South Zeal to Powdermills, via CP).
At the end of each year/start of a new one I always like looking back photos taken during the previous year, just to remind myself of how the moor changes throughout the seasons and what an incredibly beautiful part of the country I am lucky enough to live in (and lucky enough to be able to share through the pages of Dartmoor Magazine too). So here are a few photos from the first six months of 2017 (Part Two coming soon – I need to go for a walk now!).
JANUARY Easdon Down seen from the slopes of Shapley Common.
FEBRUARY I had to put this in – what a change in conditions! – the East Dart at Dartmeet after a day or two of torrential rain.
MARCH Looking up the valley of the Red-a-ven Brook towards West Mill Tor.
APRIL Glorious skies over Longaford Tor, above the West Dart River.
APRIL In complete contrast, flower-filled hedgebanks flank a Devon lane near Milton Combe.
MAY Grey skies oversee the start of the 2017 Ten Tors Challenge near Okehampton Camp.
MAY And just a few days later – soft spring sunshine lights up magnificent Vixen Tor.
JUNE I’ll finish the first six months of 2017 with one of my favourite hills: Cawsand, looking south – Haytor in the distance.
Once again, all the best for 2018 – and see you soon!